The Huli tribe is one of the most colorful and iconic tribes of Papua New Guinea. They inhabit the Tari Valley in the Southern Highlands Province. This is one of the few remaining areas where people still adhere to many of their traditional beliefs. We had two days to discover as much as we could about the area and its people.

Day 48, Wednesday, October 23: Tari Valley

We flew on a charter plane from the Karawari airstrip across untouched rainforest and mountains to Tari Valley, arriving around 10 am. Said goodbye to Sam, our pilot, and were on our way – via small van, for 45 minutes – to our accommodation, Ambua Lodge.

We were introduced to the lodge manager, Paul, our two local guides, Stephen and James, and to our driver, John. On our way, we encountered a local market.

Ambua Lodge is located almost 7000 feet above sea level overlooking the Tari Valley, surrounded by pristine rainforest, which has been featured in many wildlife documentaries. It has its own hydroelectric power plant generating clean energy from a nearby mountain stream. Thirty small round houses were built from local materials and were set amongst pretty gardens. Our room was in the two-story main lodge building and had an electric blanket for the cool evenings.

The dining and lounge areas got some water damage recently, so our meals were served in a big (and cold) conference room. The cozy fireplace unfortunately wasn’t available. But in the conference room we shared several meals with the local police force (13 officers) who were involved in a long-term investigation in the area (as we learned from their chief).

Early afternoon – despite the light rain – we started our excursion to a nearby local village where we learned about everyday life of the Hulis. For the majority of them, in many ways, their life remains relatively unchanged. They are dependent on subsistence farming.

We learned how they plant and grow sweet potatoes and other veggies (turning over the soil with the help of pigs).

Women showcased for us a few traditional crafts.

We stopped briefly in an orchid garden too. Unfortunately, it wasn’t in full season yet.

By the time we got back to the lodge, it was raining heavily. After it stopped in late afternoon, we enjoyed a short walk around the lodge and at the edge of the rainforest, admiring the beautiful flowers and hoping to see many birds. No success.

Did some very needed sink washing of our laundry, then off to the heated bed for some reading and listening to more rain.

Day 49, Thursday, October 24: Tari Valley

The day started with early morning bird-watching with our guide, Stephen. Fortunately, it wasn’t raining, but the air was misty. Since Ambua is home to 13 different species of Birds of Paradise, the main goal was to search for these beautiful but elusive birds.

Stephen and our driver, John, drove us up to over 9000 feet looking for the King of Saxony Bird of Paradise. Stephen knew where he liked to display. Despite the fog and low light, Stephen was able to locate the bird. And Steve was very happy to see and photograph it!

After our breakfast, around 9 am, we headed off on a full day tour of villages of the Huli tribe.

In the first village, we were introduced to two Huli men dressed in their colorful, beautiful bilas (traditional dresses). Our guides explained everything that they were wearing. Their headdresses were decorated with ornate bird feathers. For their body decorations they used yellow and red ochre clay, which sets them apart from others.

Then we visited the men’s “wig school” to learn about the secrets of their headdresses. The Huli wigmen showcased the process of how they make the famous elaborate wigs from their own hair. When growing their wigs, they wet their hair with holy water three times a day. They have to sleep in a special position. As their hair grows, it’s gradually formed into a shape resembling a mushroom. After years, their hair is cut and woven into a wig by the wigmaster. For ceremonies, they add parrot and Birds of Paradise feathers.

We had lots of fun joking with the Huli wigmen (through the interpretation of our guides), especially their teacher, who placed first a daily a wig, then a ceremonial wig on Steve’s head, and said Steve would be a good Huli man. He also joked – after he learned I was a teacher too – that I would be a good Huli woman. I agreed.

In the third village, we witnessed the Huli warrior dance.

Finally, we were introduced to their tradition of how Huli widows mourn.

We were just done with visiting the villages around 4 pm, when it started raining again. The planned drive to a waterfall was canceled. Steve tried to do some birdwatching around the lodge, but his efforts were in vain. What was left to remember was that we had a very good time learning about this unique tribe. Our encounter with the Hulis will be forever memorable.